I loved Topkapi Palace. It was not anything like a European palace – there are many buildings built by different Sultans yet it all flows together well. The grounds are beautiful and peaceful with stunning views over the Golden Horn, Bosphorus and Sea of Marmara.
Topkapi Palace was built over the ruins of Byzantium, and consists of many buildings separated by open courtyards. Here is a link to the layout: http://www.ee.bilkent.edu.tr/~history/topkapi01.html
Again, we had bad luck with exhibits as both the Chinese Porcelain Collection and kitchen exhibits were closed.
Hagia Irene is thought to have been built by Constantine. The Second Ecumenical Council was hosted here in 381(!). This was the main church of Constantinople until Hagia Sophia was built.
We went through the harem first (some sections were closed for renovation). We didn’t realize that the Sultans usually had 4-5 wives at most plus concubines chosen by the Sultan’s mother and wives. The Sultan’s quarters were also inside the harem.
We went through the Hall of Holy Relics, containing important items from the Muslim faith. While inside the building we could hear chanting and assumed it was a recording, but as we exited the hall we saw the imam who was reciting the Koran. I read in the guidebook that the Koran is read 24 hours a day, non-stop, as it has been since the 16th century. No photography is allowed inside the hall – we saw security force visitors to delete digital photographs on the spot.
The last building we visited was the Imperial Treasury, and like the Hall of Holy Relics, was very crowded. But we did see the Topkapi dagger, Spoonmaker’s diamond and the gold-sheeted cradle.
I thoroughly enjoyed Topkapi Palace, and after Hagia Sophia, it was my second favorite site in Istanbul. Plan to spend several hours to see everything – you won’t be disappointed.