I loved Topkapi Palace. It was not anything like a European palace – there are many buildings built by different Sultans yet it all flows together well. The grounds are beautiful and peaceful with stunning views over the Golden Horn, Bosphorus and Sea of Marmara.

Topkapi Palace was built over the ruins of Byzantium, and consists of many buildings separated by open courtyards. Here is a link to the layout: http://www.ee.bilkent.edu.tr/~history/topkapi01.html

Again, we had bad luck with exhibits as both the Chinese Porcelain Collection and kitchen exhibits were closed.

Gate of Salutation

Janissary

Hagia Irene

Hagia Irene is thought to have been built by Constantine. The Second Ecumenical Council was hosted here in 381(!). This was the main church of Constantinople until Hagia Sophia was built.

We went through the harem first (some sections were closed for renovation). We didn’t realize that the Sultans usually had 4-5 wives at most plus concubines chosen by the Sultan’s mother and wives. The Sultan’s quarters were also inside the harem.

Ornate Pathway to Harem

Close up view of the mother of pearl inlaid on the cabinet doors.

Courtyard of the Favorites

I thought this tree was really cool looking.

Gate of Felicity

Revan Pavilion

Panorama view of the 4th Courtyard – double click to open.

We went through the Hall of Holy Relics, containing important items from the Muslim faith. While inside the building we could hear chanting and assumed it was a recording, but as we exited the hall we saw the imam who was reciting the Koran. I read in the guidebook that the Koran is read 24 hours a day, non-stop, as it has been since the 16th century. No photography is allowed inside the hall – we saw security force visitors to delete digital photographs on the spot.

The last building we visited was the Imperial Treasury, and like the Hall of Holy Relics, was very crowded. But we did see the Topkapi dagger, Spoonmaker’s diamond and the gold-sheeted cradle.

I thoroughly enjoyed Topkapi Palace, and after Hagia Sophia, it was my second favorite site in Istanbul. Plan to spend several hours to see everything – you won’t be disappointed.

Many friends and family expressed their concern about traveling to Turkey as there was a great deal of unrest around Taksim Square and the ongoing civil war in Syria. To add to the worry was a U.S. Department of State warning issued the day before we departed. But we never saw or experienced a single incident that made us question our safety.

The Turkish people we encountered were incredibly friendly and helpful. If we looked even slightly lost, someone invariably offered to help. If we asked for directions, it was given with much cheer and usually the person led us to where we wanted to go. Younger people wanted to chat so they could practice their English, although I hope my thick Texas accent didn’t confuse them too much 🙂

I woke up with a nasty sinus infection the day we flew out, and part of our first morning in Istanbul was spent locating a pharmacy. When we asked for a decongestant, the pharmacist himself spoke to us face-to-face and made personal recommendations.

All in all, our enduring memory of our trip will be of the people and their wonderful friendliness and the small kindnesses extended.

This museum was under renovation when we visited, and many of the exhibits were off-limits. Set on the grounds of Topkapi Palace, the walk to the museum is pleasant and in a large park setting. The large buildings house the Museum of Archeology and Museum of the Ancient Orient, while the Tiled Kiosk is in a small building.

We only visited the Museum of Archeology and the Tiled Kiosk. The large building was unpleasantly warm and muggy on this warm day. And those who know me are well aware that I seriously dislike hot and humid. All that to say that there was a lot to see that we missed, and a return to this museum would be on my itinerary for a second visit to Istanbul.

Purple sarcophogi outside the main building. Believed to have held the bodies of some of the early Byzantine emperors.

Various sarcophagi inside the museum —

Alexander Sarcophagus, 4th Century B.C. Thought to have been built for King Abdalonymos of Sidon, it depicts scenes from Alexander the Great’s victory over the Persians.

This is a portion of the chain placed across the Golden Horn to block enemy ships.

Tiled Kiosk. The word kiosk is derived from the Turkish word for mansion or pavilion. This building represents early Ottoman civic architecture and the only building of this period to survive.

Arabic inscription states that this building was constructed around 20 years after the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople.

Exquisite 15th century tiled mihrab.

Random pieces scattered around the grounds and partially hidden from visitors. Makes me wonder why they were brought here but not considered important enough to display.

Although a large portion of the museum was inaccessible due to renovations, I’m not sure it would be possible to see all the exhibits in a single day. But even if museums are not your thing, I highly recommend a visit to see the remarkable and unique exhibitions.

This is an unusual site, and although it doesn’t take long to tour, it is definitely worth a look.

Built during the reign of Emperor Justinian in the 6th century, it covers an area about the size of two football fields, and held 27 million gallons of water.

Unassuming Entrance

336 columns hold up the roof, most recycled from Roman ruins in and around the city.

Brick Ceiling

Look at the fish!

One of two Medusa heads used as a column base.

Stairs to Exit

I read in the Rick Steves guidebook that until the wooden walkway was built a number of years ago, the water was 6 feet deep and visitors rented a boat and rowed around to tour the cistern. Maybe you remember the boat scene in the movie From Russia with Love?

One of the sights I was most looking forward to was Haghia Sophia, and it did not disappoint. As with the mosques, the sheer scale of the building is hard to convey in words and pictures. Even with scaffolding blocking half the central area, the scale is extraordinary.

The Church of Holy Wisdom was inaugurated by Emperor Justinian in 537. Just let that sink in for a moment. FIVE HUNDRED THIRTY-SEVEN.

(Note – we purchased a Museum Pass for 85 TL each. This pass allows access to a number of sights within a 72 hour window and allows pass holders to bypass entrance lines. Read more about it here:  http://www.muze.gov.tr/museum_pass)

Entrance Through the Imperial Gate

Centuries of footsteps have worn down the marble threshold.

Coronation Square – Where Emperors were Crowned

Marble Ramp Leading to Upper Galleries

This scaffolding has been in place for years – note the layers of dust.

Again with the guidebook!

Look carefully and see the dips and cracks in the marble flooring.

If Haghia Sophia had been the only site we saw in Istanbul, the whole trip would have still been worthwhile. Magnificent and depressing all at the same time. The sheer amount of repairs needed, obvious even to our untrained eyes, are enormous.

After we returned to our hotel, I found an article from the Dec. 2008 Smithsonian about the preservation efforts. One person quoted in the article echoed my thought that a big earthquake will bring the whole building down. (I would link to the article, but I’m unsure of copyright issues).

Many problems must be overcome regarding repairs – the intertwining of Christian and Islam faiths in this single building one of the largest. Sadly, I’m not sure how much longer it will stand. So go see it, sooner rather than later.